Know that amber is a fantasy note in perfumery, and is in fact a glorious accord that generally consists of benzoin, vanilla, and labdanum. It’s what is added to this fundamental accord that defines the character of amber fragrances. Moreover, ambergris (grey amber) adds a warm and salty ambery spine to many compositions, so popular and effective that it spawned many powerful amber molecules used in perfumery today. In Histoires de Parfums’ Ambre 114, perfumer Gerald Ghislain acknowledges this fact and builds a complex amber accord with 114 ingredients – it is undoubtedly a complex simplicity, an image of parts fulfilling a sumptuous whole, until it starts to overflow, true to the indulgent fantasy of amber. Ghislain is never profligate, as this composition is a melting meld of thyme, nutmeg, sandalwood, rose, patchouli, tonka bean, and so much more. Ambre 114 demonstrates that precious amber needn’t be dissected, but felt as it works along warm sensual skin.
Ambre Russe (Parfum d’Empire) centres the amber fantasy once more, with a distinctive dryness and leathery backbone. It is festive and luminous, charged with unmistakable flashes of effervescent Champagne, oily and icy vodka, and smoked black tea - all working around the exquisite brilliance of ambergris. Byzantine Amber (Francesca Bianchi) is dark and obscure, shimmering with gold, dramatic and decadent. This styrax-forward resinous amber has a mineral facet washed in smoke, which marries brilliantly with the soft spicy hum of cinnamon, and the pulpy floral tones of geranium. A magical unfurling, this amber feels to have come from an ancient time, a lost potion stored away in dust-covered jars once used to anoint and venerate.
Ambre Supreme (Les Indemodables) is significant for several reasons - but emphasis must be given to its use of real ambergris tincture. Virtually unknown in the contemporary market, real ambergris offers a unique complex of mineral, saline, and ambery facets. The focus here is the ingredient itself, which is respectfully built out with a hydrocarbon resin derived from cistus labdanum (a key amber note), in addition to a bounty of 'Grand Cru' grade naturals - clary sage, patchouli, immortelle. Wearing Ambre Supreme is real luxury.
With a penchant for overdose, Les Indemodables' Patchouli Noisette boasts a knockout 35% dosage of patchouli extracts. This is possible, Remi Pulverail explains, because they work directly with the producer from beginning to end - ensuring the patchouli extracts are not cut with undesirable material, under the most controlled conditions. To draw out the woody facets of the material, this is blended with an exceptional grade of Hazelnut from Piedmont, lending a distinctly mealy texture that melts into the composition. The result is a liqueur-like patchouli, intense and astringent at times but never harsh.
Concluding this collection is Sticky Fingers from Francesca Bianchi, described as a rock-and-roll hedonism, patchouli is front and centre with all of its glorious effects. The best features of the note’s earthiness is emphasised with the help of tobacco, leather, and honey - all infused with a melting plush iris note that never detracts from the ravenous energy of this sensual delight.
