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Heeley Chiris Extrait de Parfum

Sale price $47920 AUD Regular price $59900
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This beautiful iris-leather accord is a contemporary tribute to the perfumed world of Chiris. Founded in 1768, Chiris was one of the first producers of raw materials and perfumes in France. For over three centuries, from its origins in Grasse, Chiris expanded across the globe to become, by the end of the 19th century, the largest producer of natural raw materials in the world. The “Chiris Dynasty”, as it became known, is a remarkable story of human endeavour whose history lies at the origin of modern perfumery.

Wear profile

Longevity
Intensity
Season Summer · Autumn

Details

Family Woods
Country France
Perfumer James Heeley
Year 2026
Concentration Extrait de Parfum

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Description

Fragrance Family:
Woods

Notes:
Osmanthus, Peach, Iris Pallida, Cedar, Olibanum, Leather, Vetiver, Sandalwood, Amber

Concentration:
Extrait de Parfum

Occasion:
An iris dream. Rich and waxy iris butter, replete with its many beguiling paradoxes. Earthy and sweet, creamy and dry. Respectfully built among woods, leather, and floral touches. A decadence. 

Made in France

Editor's Notes

The scent of iris, or more specifically, orris - the aromatic rhizome of the iris flower - is chiefly due to the presence of irones. Maximising the irone content of these roots requires careful drying and maturation, up to 5 years, on top of 2-3 years of growth in the field. Processed via hydrodistillation, 330kg of rhizome will yield 1kg of iris butter, which contains less than 100g of irone content.

This explains its cost, and is one of the most expensive raw materials available to the perfumer today. And while synthetic irone substitutes exist, none can match the aromatic profile of precious iris butter. It is uniquely paradoxical, as the scent is full of contradictions: both powdery and buttery, waxy, woody, and leathery - one might also find impressions of fruit, chocolate, and green.

Heeley’s Chiris embraces this profound material to the fullest degree. With a high dose of natural iris root, the material breathes and sweats, showing off its innate richness. Chiris becomes a bona fide perfume, touched up with woody, leathery, and floral materials to enhance its best facets. Chiris has curves to it, though one can identify strong angles. Blended with osmanthus, it becomes an alloy with a rich and fetching dimension, almost jammy at the top, this fruit aspect - redolent of peach and apricot - soon gives way to leather and tobacco nuances. Its woody dimension is supported with cedarwood, prolonging the dessicated and textured feeling of the key material. Sandalwood, almost in the inverse, imparts melt and creaminess. These two woods work the contradiction between dry and buttery, respectively.

Chiris has a long finish, that becomes increasingly leathery and dry, and even ambery. One is all too happy to occupy the deepest part of its heart, as if to survey the scent. No value in assuming a distance from this one; better to inhabit the scent and enjoy its slow transformations from within. Chiris attains the superlative, and is one of the richest iris perfumes I have ever encountered, sitting alongside the greats such as Iris Silver Mist (Serge Lutens) or La Pausa (Chanel).

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