If musks range from the pure and white to the animal, then Musk Therapy from Initio Parfums squarely exists on the side of white. There is no mistaking its muskiness, laminating clean, floral, dry wood impressions together. Indeed, white musk fragrances like this become an exercise in layering and overdosing. If it were a painting, it scumbles and smudges its material into one. This is a musky cocktail stirring impressions of cleanliness and comfort - memories of freshly laundered clothing, summer evening breezes, milky skin, freshness and newness. Musk Therapy is a large sculpture crafted from a large block of musk - singular from afar but richly detailed up close, from the fine shimmer of citrus notes and tender white florals, the fine tactility of blackcurrant and citrus fruit, and melting milky sandalwood - working the musk cycle over and over.
The Musc from Essential Parfums demonstrates that white musk notes can be cleverly adjusted according to different creative intentions. Whilst Silver Musk shines, The Musk is a comforting mute tone. The Musc seeks and achieves roundedness and ambiance – a singularly coherent harmony. Musk notes are touched up with the natural and matte sensation of ginger, lavender, beeswax, and sandalwood. It is supremely textural. It employs two beautiful contemporary musk molecules, fruity Serenolide and milky Nirvanolide, notable for their evocative and tell-all names.
Between white and animal is ambrette seed (from hibiscus flower), and is the only floral material that produces a true musky aroma. This vegetal material is rich with contradictions - it is both ozonic fresh and deep, with nuances of fruity apple and pear - with unctuousness and sparkle. Parfum d’Empire’s Le Cri utilises this effect to produce a radiant chypre; an architecture of refracted lightbeams. Its floral components, rose and iris, lend refinement and austerity.
Musc des Sables approaches the animalic with a fine yet effective dose of ambergris, while remaining firmly in the enveloping category of musks. It is very nearly an amber fragrance, luscious with additions of tonka bean, benzoin, patchouli, and premium orris root. It is freshly slightly with a top note of green mandarin, but is a true journey through richness.
Musk Deer (Zoologist) works on a fine line, exceeding the threshold of sensuality with its generous and triumphant use of animalic musks. It beguilingly voyages through a wilderness of spices, patchouli, florals, and oud, adding dimension and contrast in bountiful layers. Its muskiness is immediate and sustained throughout wear. Tonkin Deer musk is nowadays recreated synthetically with muscone: it is soft and sweet with a defining animalic edge; it is surprisingly not overtly ‘animal’, but musky. Its ferocity and animality is the result of blending, which in this case relies on the polyphonic growls of oud, ambrette, cedar, patchouli, and even jasmine sambac. Unspoken Musk by Francesca Bianchi similarly calls upon a tonkin musk accord, buttressed with animalics. But here the animalic works in the service of a striking humanness; skin-soft, hazy, intimate, and seriously sensual. Its magic is iris - blended with balsamic notes - the result is angelic, smudging everything together to become a beautiful wrap of musk, recalling traditional associations of love potions.
