Parle Moi de Parfum's Papyrus Oud respects the oud note whilst rendering its moreish dryness. Here oud takes on a dry, almost liturgical dimension as it finds itself in a temple surrounded in papyrus, incense, vetiver, cedar, and pine, bordered with sizzling and generous sparks of ginger, pink pepper, and a crisp breeze of clean herbs. It has a gloriously crinkly texture, with beguiling atmosphere and length. It is meditative, and ascendent, creating a mysterious mood. Its elegance is unmistakable, presented subtly - it is complex and achieves cleanliness through spiciness. Similarly, Heeley’s Agarwoud shares a turn away from stifling density, its smokiness is sublimated with the fleshy, diffuse, tender, and green touch of rose. This injection of lightness allows nuance to express itself, and Heeley constructs an oud without adulteration - letting it be its fullest self.
Francesca Bianchi’s Voluptuous Oud is ingenious, which begins with understanding. In this work, Francesca studied the many facets of the oud, including the aspects people shy away from. Drawing on its funk - slightly butyric, pentanoic, and lactic - she transforms these notes to present a tempting Middle Eastern pastry: buttery layers encasing sticky stewed plum for tangy relief, drawn together with caramel. A gourmand inflected oud, and ultimately very serious perfumery. Similarly, Fidelis from Histoires de Parfums turns to the spectacular - freshened with a dark rose, but a savoury-sweet complex of roasted coffee, saffron, cumin, cardamom, and a welcome pulse of raspberry. The oud here is smoky but balanced, lending its remarkable strength.
In Nostos (Etat Libre d’Orange), oud is combined with the strength and determination of leathery materials, radiant with incense and counterbalanced with a fine red floral heart. Its magic is in the clever assortment of materials, here using modern georgywood and ambroxan for a spectacular woody-amber effect that lingers, and lingers. Black Afgano (Nasomatto) blends oud notes with hashish, tobacco, and coffee to create a total narcotic and mesmerising effect, which is intensely ambery and sturdy with woody base notes. Overdosed and powerful, Black Afgano feels like an exclamation point boldly drawn in dizzyingly black ink - expressive and long lasting.
