The simply named Osmanthus is a treasure. Released in the year 2000, this was the first true osmanthus 'soliflore' on the modern market. And what remains unique to this composition is a marvellous simplicity. Legendary perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena enumerates each facet of the flower, from jasmine tea to rosy blush, velvety suede and apricot fuzz. Softness, restraint, and charming delicacy.
Pure eVe represents a distinct sort of delicacy and purity, authored by Jean-Claude Ellena's daughter, Celine Ellena. An image of silky fabric gliding over skin, the palpable softness of Pure eVe is enough to stop one in their tracks, suspending them in a moment of tenderness. Powdery sweet almond, flax, white rose, and aldehyde are the main notes in this mesmerising blend.
Moving from Aix-en-Provence to Ireland, Sublime Balkiss is a chypre fragrance that utilises a brilliant combination of patchouli, blackcurrant bud, and violet leaf to produce a distinct rain note, along with the velvety smell of the wind that carries the unique smell of earth and ozone. Nuanced with vegetal notes, between green, blue, and purple, the heart of the scent if floral and lush, dried with a hint of cacao.
Une Nuit Magnetique is authored by Christine Nagel, who is now the in-house perfumer at Hermes; sharing the same pipeline as the house's founder Jean-Claude Ellena. Nagel's mastery is overt, taking a traditional floral-amber structure of jasmine (with touches of rose and tuberose) enriched with amber and patchouli, exploding the scent with unique fruity, citrus, and balsamic facets. The result is velvety and rousing - a crisp sizzle of ginger sits right next to balsamic bergamot, cheeky with fruity notes of blueberry and plum. Magical.
Majaina Sin follows a similar principle: it is outrageous yet completely well-proportioned, its delicious overdose of Madagascan vanilla, tonka bean, maple syrup, and chestnut cream is perfectly contrasted against an equal overdose of candied orange, bergamot, and neroli for refreshment; spiced with ginger and cinnamon. A gourmand in the very best sense. An instant addiction.
Rose Poivree is a bold interpretation of a spicy rose, loaded with black pepper, pink pepper, and civet for fire and heat. Its rose build is a standout, combining Damascena rose and Centifolia rose - fronting its inexhaustible facets - it is both green and red, dark and fresh, working the spicy side with a beguiling frankness. Diabolical yet beautiful, say, a rose befitting Hieronymus Bosch, authored by Jean-Claude Ellena.